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  • oneshot

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    When I was at the Ins. office about mine, and told her what I was going to do , she had pile of forms on her disk, and she said I was not the only one , she a lot of other people was looking at doing it. Have to remember If I under stand most covers has a 10.000 deductible on hurricane damage.
     

    WRM

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    If you do it, spend the extra money to air gap it with furring strips. That will further increase the efficiency re heat gain in attic. If I can ever catch up with the ever increasing cost for my house, I'll be going metal.
     

    TontoFAC

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    I'm getting conflicting advice on installing over shingles or stripping the shingles. The best I can figure is the advantage to stripping the shingles is the battens can be attached directly to the rafters reducing to the uplift affect during high winds. The added cost of stripping the shingles is a con.
     

    WRM

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    I'm getting conflicting advice on installing over shingles or stripping the shingles. The best I can figure is the advantage to stripping the shingles is the battens can be attached directly to the rafters reducing to the uplift affect during high winds. The added cost of stripping the shingles is a con.
    Man, I'd swallow that one, personally. I couldn't pop for that roof and not strip the shingles and put down fresh peel and stick on the roof sheathing.
     

    WRM

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    Every metal roof manufacturer I investigated does recommend an underlayment on top of shingles to prevent shingle to metal rubbing.

    I just mean I'd rather go to sheathing than roofing, myself.
     

    Anyting5dolla

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    Every metal roof manufacturer I investigated does recommend an underlayment on top of shingles to prevent shingle to metal rubbing.
    If you have bare shingles under metal roof panels with expansion and contraction with wind load it will rub scars into the panel itself. Imagine taking your roof panels and pushing them across the asphalt on the street. That’s what will happen over time making it bare metal to rust. Batons are like a spacer between the shingles and the panels.
     

    TK5o

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    Yes I would think you leave the shingles cause thats just a little extra protection. Then lay 2x4 strips across the roof. Maybe 4-5 rows or more depending on roof size. Then attach the the metal to those strips.

    My question is do you fill the gap in the 2x4 rows with a dense foam board or other type insulation, or leave it as a air gap?
     

    Anyting5dolla

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    Yes I would think you leave the shingles cause thats just a little extra protection. Then lay 2x4 strips across the roof. Maybe 4-5 rows or more depending on roof size. Then attach the the metal to those strips.

    My question is do you fill the gap in the 2x4 rows with a dense foam board or other type insulation, or leave it as a air gap?
    no so you actually use 1x4 have to have one on the edge then 1 foot from there then you have one 2 foot from your one foot then each board after will be 2 foot. Gives it more structure so the panel doesn’t collapse on itself especially if your using thin metal like 26 gauge steel. Board spacing can be different in different areas with the wind loads. You do not need to cover the shingles if you run batons for metal. But you will have to take the bottom run of shingles and drip edge off.
     

    TK5o

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    Ok. I get the spacing but what about the air gap? Leave it or insulate? And why 1x4 instead of 2x4?
     

    WRM

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    I would leave the air gap for expansion and contraction. A well ventilated roof will last much longer than than one that is not!
    Yes, left as air gap. And, as noted, battens are not 2x4s. Supporting a metal roof is not a huge challenge, and think how much your cost goes up by using unnecessary 2xs when 1xs will more than suffice.

    Here, you are worried more about heat gain in the attic via transmission from roofing material. The air gap is reducing heat gain from having the metal roof touching the sheathing (conductive, I think). Risk with insulation is that it could promote moisture retention and sheathing rot. It's not needed anyway--you aren't trying to insulate on exterior of building envelope.

    There is a metallic overlay you can also use to further deflect heat gain.

    Personally, I don't want the shingles. I want fresh "new tech" peel and stick on my deck.
     

    WRM

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    I'm getting conflicting advice on installing over shingles or stripping the shingles. The best I can figure is the advantage to stripping the shingles is the battens can be attached directly to the rafters reducing to the uplift affect during high winds. The added cost of stripping the shingles is a con.

    And, the battens are going to get drilled into solid substrate regardless. They may need to use longer screws, depending on your roof and if you have multiple layers of shingles. No one legit would just screw battens into shingles only. Properly installed, I don't think that shingles or not is going to affect your uplift one whit. I just wouldn't keep the shingles, if it were me. I'd rather have fresh peel and stick on my decking. Pretty much the most waterproof combo. Do what makes you feel pretty.

    One thing many (most) of the roofers don't tell you--your roof screws (not batten) have to be regularly replaced. They have a gasket which deteriorates over time with UV exposure. To maintain "waterproof" integrity, they need replaced.
     

    lil'skeet

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    Ok. I get the spacing but what about the air gap? Leave it or insulate? And why 1x4 instead of 2x4?
    If your ceiling joists are insulated, do not add another separate layer of insulation. It can cause moisture, rot and mold.
    If your rafters are insulated (spray foam) then you can insulate as there is no airspace between the 2 insulated areas.
    Ventilation in the attic is way more important. Soffit vents with ridge vent, Gable vents, and \ or mechanical venting.
     

    WRM

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    If your ceiling joists are insulated, do not add another separate layer of insulation. It can cause moisture, rot and mold.
    If your rafters are insulated (spray foam) then you can insulate as there is no airspace between the 2 insulated areas.
    Ventilation in the attic is way more important. Soffit vents with ridge vent, Gable vents, and \ or mechanical venting.

    He is talking about "insulating" the air gap between metal roof and sheathing (as I took it). There is no use in foam board "insulation" on the exterior of the building.

    Ventilation (in the "south") is a bill of goods. It literally was one of the first national building code items passed back in the 50s, I believe. Great way for the industry to make sure extra work was required, regardless if needed. It is useless here, and studies have shown that. Up North, where moisture in the sub freezing attic from the insulated and temp controlled living space can result in that moisture freezing in the insulation, is another matter. We don't need it and they do. We all get it thanks to "Code".
     

    Boardfeet

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    Spray foam insulated roof decks do not require attic ventilation. Typically a single A/C vent is in the attic.
     

    WRM

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    Given our weather here, I personally would never spray foam the underside of my roof deck. Any leak is almost certainly going to be suppressed. When you discover you had a leak you may have a real problem, particularly with today's balsa wood like builder grade wood.

    An analog is all the problems that occurred with EFIS years ago when used in place of stucco. EFIS was developed in Europe for architectural accents (hard to find a stone carver now). It was NEVER intended to be a whole building finish system. The industry just decided it would work for that--with disastrous consequence.

    But, your house and your dollars--do it how you want.
     

    lil'skeet

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    I know a person on 30A with a spray foam rafter house. Was great r-value, but just like above post said, a leak developed, probably 10 years back, foam hid leak, trapped it, and let it spread over a huge area. Now rafters, sheathing, foam, and roof need to be replaced. Oh requires mold remediation now. Big $! Open cell foam and moisture are not a good combo. Fortunately he has cinder block for exterior walls but moisture worked it's way down the interior of 3 floors. Good thing his pockets are deep and it's his "little" 5000 sq ft summer, beach home.
    I understand that he wants to insulate airspace between battens. Waste of time, money and a bad idea.
     
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