Metal Roof

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  • DoubleDee

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    They ain't in business to pay claims, and they got hammered for years under a statute that required them to replace a "damaged" roof, no matter how old and ratty and without any depreciation. Truly was the golden age for the consumer. Cheap rates and you never need replace your roof. That statute was supposed to get changed, but I don't know if it did.

    Last time I bothered to check, my yearly premium was going to be over $7k with a 20% deduct. Absent catastrophic damage, they'd likely never have to pay me jack. Then, they'll try to make you poney up deduct on front end, so I'd need to have a spare $100k or so lying about to rebuild, given bringing a large 1952 house fully up to "current code". That's a joke cuz this house is built like a Sherman tank. I just go bare.

    I think it's on topic because it all goes into the hopper. I feel a metal roof will serve me well to help prevent/mitigate future storm damage. I'd hell of a lot rather buy it than insurance.
    I'm leaning toward your thoughts. Have already discussed the next roof being metal when a hurricane blasts this one away.
     

    WRM

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    I'm leaning toward your thoughts. Have already discussed the next roof being metal when a hurricane blasts this one away.

    All about your risk tolerance. Makes it easy when you can't afford the insurance though. Unless I have total destruction (unlikely) I can do near all clean up and repair work myself. If total, I'll just drag in a 5th wheeler.
     
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    TontoFAC

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    I'm leaning toward your thoughts. Have already discussed the next roof being metal when a hurricane blasts this one away.
    I wish I could wait to replace my roof. My insurance company is requiring roofs that are 15 years old to be replaced or policy gets canceled. My roof hits 15 years in July. Don't want to risk all roofers heading to LA and then have my insurance cancelled. Talked with an acquaintance that performs wind mitigation inspections and metal roofs could add up to $1000 to the wind mitigation inspection credit.
     

    WRM

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    At one time GP had a rebate available for them. FPL will probably expect you to pay them a subsidy if you put one on.
     

    B52

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    At one time GP had a rebate available for them. FPL will probably expect you to pay them a subsidy if you put one on.
    I like your physics heat transfer explanation. Four years ago I covered the south-facing side of my hip roof with solar panels. That represents about 80% of total area of the south-side roof. Also about 40% of the west roof have panels. I have noticed the attic takes longer to get hot on sunny days or isn't as bad. I never thought about the panels providing shade for the roof. It's another side bonus for my A/C.
     

    WRM

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    I like your physics heat transfer explanation. Four years ago I covered the south-facing side of my hip roof with solar panels. That represents about 80% of total area of the south-side roof. Also about 40% of the west roof have panels. I have noticed the attic takes longer to get hot on sunny days or isn't as bad. I never thought about the panels providing shade for the roof. It's another side bonus for my A/C.

    SCIENCE...imagine that!

    The issue with "ventilating" an attic (again, here, DO NOT tell me "that's not how we do it up North") is that you are not getting at the real issue--heat transfer occurring from roofing in direct contact with sheathing then to all the structural members inside the attic. That is really what continues to heat your attic--no matter how much 107 degree outside air you suck in. IF ventilation was the "magic wand" claimed, your attic temp should be at equilibrium, on many days, at or right after sundown. It isn't. It takes far into the night and next am for the structural members to finish discharging the heat gained in the day--all so the process can repeat the next day. IF your attic is well insulated, you won't experience the effect I do. Mine is poorly insulated, and my AC struggles most of the night to try and keep my house cool from the heat radiating in thru the ceilings from the attic (again, heat goes where it's not). I finally notice around 3-4 am that the AC is getting some much needed, but sadly brief, relief.

    As I noted prior, there is also a metallized foil that can go over your underlayment (felt or peel n stick) and under the battens. It will further reduce the heat gain that inevitably is occurring (at a lesser rate) in the air gap. If you aren't going to "do solar", it bears looking at. You have a similar setup--the heat just isn't able to effectively reach your roofing for the downtown bus transfer.

    Another example: people who live in an RV and "air gap" it by building a roof structure. It's just shade, my dudes. Ever notice how good it feels under a big tree on a bright sunny day?
     

    RussSurfs

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    When we renewed our homeowners last year - the questions were: 1) how old is your roof, 2) how old is your hot water heater, and 3) how old is your AC.

    I wonder what will be asked this year.

    Got 50yr(?) shingles 8yr ago with the hope of getting 20-25 out of them. upgraded layment that is now required. Next re-roof will be evaluated differently depending on insurance crap. Makes living near the coast less desirable.... at least in FL. Not sure if AL residents seeing the same thing.
    When they reviewed my house last year, they said I had to replace the entire interior breaker box. They did cover more than half the cost - but it was still a pain.

    I have a good insurance guy, he recommended the wind mitigation review and just cut my floor insurance by 700 a year.

    Shop insurance providers and keep them working on getting you the best policies and rates.
     

    WRM

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    When they reviewed my house last year, they said I had to replace the entire interior breaker box. They did cover more than half the cost - but it was still a pain.

    I have a good insurance guy, he recommended the wind mitigation review and just cut my floor insurance by 700 a year.

    Shop insurance providers and keep them working on getting you the best policies and rates.

    Yeah they didn't "like" our box, as they felt it was upgraded from fuses so long ago it didn't meet current code. Quite sure that it doesn't. End of the day, they don't want to insure my house. In a fire, it'll be a total loss--70 year old heart pine framing and trusses and whatnot. The replacement cost given size and finishes used (ie terrazzo) and the rebuild will be $500k+. They really just don't want to insure my house, but will with a hefty premium. Don't blame them, but I'll not participate, thanks.
     

    nrajeeper

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    When they reviewed my house last year, they said I had to replace the entire interior breaker box. They did cover more than half the cost - but it was still a pain.

    I have a good insurance guy, he recommended the wind mitigation review and just cut my floor insurance by 700 a year.

    Shop insurance providers and keep them working on getting you the best policies and rates.
    We did the wind mitigation as well and saved several hundred dollars. Windows on the garage door was about the only thing at the time that they had against us; we still have them.

    We use an agency and have them look for deals every 2-3 years and i do some checks with AAA etc as well; we do the same with car insurance.
     
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