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accurizing model 94

FrommerStop

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Are there any local gunsmiths that specialize in Winchester 94 accurizing? I have such on hand, that are not antiques, but I have had them for years. Winchester 94s when compared with the older marlins have a very poor reputation for accuracy and that has been my experience for a limited number of such.
Assuming that the crown is not buggered up from cleaning rod misuse, the big issue seems to the way the forearm is secured to the gun.
I am thinking of doing the called for modifications myself, but might consider taking to a gunsmith that knows these rifles well. The biggie is I do not want their serial numbers written down in a log book.
the easier things to do are:
2. 3. Remove a little wood where the fore-end slides into the receiver and along the barrel channel. 4. Back the screws off about 3⁄4 of a turn at (A) the fore-end barrel band, (B) the front barrel band, and (C) the front of the magazine tube. Add a drop of Loctite to each to secure.Bill Buckley
Number 1 is shortening the mag that should only be done with a lot of care in my opinion.

Paco Kelley talks about filling a groove in the bottom of the barrel near the chamber end and corresponding removal on the stock to fit a piece rod to push the forearm away from the barrel. The objective is to free float the forearm.

Plus there are other things that can be done to the trigger and the loading gate can be fixed to speed up reloading.


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maxfold

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Sounds about right , Skinners Sights sell an adjustable peep . That sits just in front of hammer with two drilled and tapped mounting holes , helps with my old eyes ,
 

wildrider666

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Old rifle bore wear unspecified. Shot out barrel? First, I would get all the old lead and more recent copper fouling out with the proper use of dedicated strong solvents, scrap, plug and fill drain repeat. Some claim good results with electronic rod tools. test fire, compare results.

Free float is about barrel harmonics (like a tuning fork) and eliminating contact with the barrel. Conversely, some firearms do better with a single pressure point between the forend and barrel. You have pressure points and by design, can only alter them unless you eliminate the barrel bands. The feed tube needs support and some models have a pin & grooves in tube and barrel to prevent its movement. ANY contact with stock, bands will still dampen the harmonics but it won't be free floating.

Before you do the work or pay some one: just "strip it" (feed tube too) and shoot it! No forend, bands or contact points will give you free floated results and not cost a dime except ammo. Tests fire, compare results.

You will know both ends of the spectrum. If it originally shot 5MOA, hard scrub brought it down to 4MOA but naked it got worse or only 0.5MOA better. Now you can add the feed tube and its hardware and test it again. Same with the forend with screw it backed off (First test was done with it tightafter cleaning).

Now you know true free floated barrel results and each change from pressure points tight and loose.
What improved or got worse with each progression? Does the Rod install with barrel bands make sense?

To really free float it the forend would need to be soley supported by the receiver and the feed tube stabilized by the forend, Plus handle the shooters use of the forend. Currently, that's pretty thin wood at the receiver but a new mouse trap makes money if it works.
 

skipperbrown

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I think you are picking the wrong gun to accurize. There is no way to float the barrel, there is a slow lock time, the stock attachment is problematic, the bolt lockup in most is sloppy, many of the calibers headspace on the rim, etc. All mine are 3 MOA guns and I accept that. The upside is they are a part of our history, they look great and are a lot of fun to shoot. If you want a tight shooting gun, I'd spend my money elsewhere.
 

FrommerStop

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I think you are picking the wrong gun to accurize. There is no way to float the barrel, there is a slow lock time, the stock attachment is problematic, the bolt lockup in most is sloppy, many of the calibers headspace on the rim, etc. All mine are 3 MOA guns and I accept that. The upside is they are a part of our history, they look great and are a lot of fun to shoot. If you want a tight shooting gun, I'd spend my money elsewhere.
I watched someone years ago when it still called the ERML range take his famiy's heirloom marlin in 30-30 with handloads and shoot one MOA groups. Tube fed lever guns in 30-30 can be super accurate. Marlins made at the old marlin plant were accurate guns. My marlin does shoot well, but seems a little blockier than a '94. Also 35Rem ammo is a little harder to find. I got lots 30-30 around.
Why pay attention to a '94 lever gun. If the democrats win, I expect severe restrictions and maybe banning of semiautos. Sure one can hid their ARs, but use it to deal with a goblin in self defense and you could be in deep dodo. I am hoping that the garand and SKS rifles with fixed magazines stay legal also.
Biden right now is saying he will not go after traditional hunting weapons and that is probably true. The '94 is a sweet handling rifle, especially in the 16 inch barreled versions. It will at close range kill deer and just about anything else that walks or crawls over the landscape of Florida. Improving the groups to 3 moa is my goal and makes it good for head shotd to 150 yards. The biggie is the mag tube for gross inaccuracy. The trapper was like new when i bought it second hand at a gunshow more than 25 yrs ago. I showed it to Alan Mccullough over at Ole Fronteir and from his experience he told me that it likely would not be accurate and it was not. I did not even try to measure the groups that I got from it and I am convinced there is a mechanical reason for the poor grouping. If the crown and rifling are good and the sights are tight, my experience says looks toward the bedding of the gun. I have a peep sight on it currently.
 

FrommerStop

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New model '94 pricing is ridiculous. Price is MSRP $1,199.99 for what is pictured below.


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Jdcujo

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Something else to consider, the ammo. Factory vs reloads vs reloads tailored to that specific rifle.
Know what groups you got currently with it would help. Also was it in say a vice/ rest to remove all human error out of the equation.
 

FrommerStop

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Something else to consider, the ammo. Factory vs reloads vs reloads tailored to that specific rifle.
Know what groups you got currently with it would help. Also was it in say a vice/ rest to remove all human error out of the equation.
They have been sitting for more than 20 years when I purchased them because the '94 assault weapons ban. So I not have record of the grouping.
Back then my eyes were better and the fault was the rifle's and maybe how it was being rested on the forearm. I will try to remove the influene of bedding to get a base line. I will then as far as I can strip it in the front and I hope to also remove the magazine tube and rest the receiver on the bag. I will likely mount a red dot or scope to help with aiming just to get the baseline.
 
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