WTB Section of Railroad Track or Heavy Pipe

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  • SAWMAN

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    Don't have either . . but . . would reccomend 4-6" THICK WALLED pipe. Does a better job of breaking up the clods after the disc. If needbe it can be sleeved with another piece of pipe to make it heavier. But as long as it is thick enough and long enough (8-10') it probably will be as heavy as you can handle. ---SAWMAN
     

    fishingjean

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    I have a 1ft. Piece of railroad track I use as an anval , works great, my Dad made a rear bumper for his 46 Chevy trk out of a section of track, very heavy duty !!!!!!
     

    fl57caveman

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    try a new railroad timber with either railroad spikes hammered in about 2.5-3", or 20penny nails hammered halfway...if not heavy enough, strap an old hardened bag of 100 lbs of concrete to the middle
     

    5lima30ret

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    Before I moved I made a drag out of a 6' section of discarded galvanized guard rail wich I attached a piece of COMMERCIAL (not residential) chain link fence. I put eye bolts on it to attach a chain and welded a piece of re-bar that was woven into the chainlink fence to the rail. The beauty of this drag was that by merely flipping it over you could made it more aggressive (dig in more) or smooth where it would "roll" over humps depending on what I needed. It worked great!
     

    Seanpcola

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    I've been working on the runway over in Baldwin Co. and after experimenting a lot the best I've found was 6", thick wall steel pipe behind the disc.
     

    SAWMAN

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    Bullshit ??? I told you about the pipe. Before that you used a long stack of Styrofoam coffee cups. ---SAWMAN
     

    Zeroed in

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    That track rail will work good, but may be hard to find in the length you're most likely needing. We use a 4' x 8' piece of chain linked fence with cinder blocks (anything of weight) tied at the front, middle and far end (on top) of the fence. The flexibility of the chain link is hard to beat for busting dirt clods and leveling disc'd plots, roads, etc.
     

    seminole1

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    I actually use a drag I made out of chain link to cover seed after I spread. Id like to have something that would raise with the disc on turns that would smooth out the disc ruts before I spread. The heavy walled pipe sounds good if I can find some.
     

    Murfpcola

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    If you can't find heavy walled pipe just pour concrete into the thin walled pipe

    Or even pvc filled with concrete for that matter. That would last quite a while. Something I saw a couple years ago was a guy used a railroad cross tie to drag behind his disc. There were two brackets attached to the disc and two arms that went down to the cross tie. When the tie was not desired they would hinge the tie up and rest it on top of the disc.
     

    MarkS

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    The pvc pipe route would need rebar to keep it from breaking



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     

    SAWMAN

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    Ummmmmmmm . . . . . KelTec. Best made pistol in the world.
    Many people don't know this . . but . . . they are made by Wilson Combat. ---SAWMAN
     

    oneshot

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    SAW man you must have a KelTec for sale. you trying to run the price up saying that Wilson is making them.
    Oh I may have a piece of pipe will check Monday. jj
     

    Zeroed in

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    What about one of those cheap grader blades? Not the whole grader frame, but just the replaceable blade. They're about 6' long. Mount it to some medium tines or angle iron, drill holes, bolt it on your top disc bar. Could even make it adjustable.
     
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