Do those Automobile A/C Additives Really Work?

[Zeroed in]

My a/c compressor bearings smoked out earlier today on i-110 (was that you that passed me by, lol).
I'd had a VA appt., and afterwards, I stopped at the BOGO Market, a Korean grocery store on N. Pace and St. Mary Ave, and bought some noodles, kimchi and had the old man fix me a (early) lunch beef, noodles and kimchi (kinda like Bulgogi).
Anyway, if you've ever had or been around kimchi, you know the smell. So I'm back on i-110 and I start smelling something not right. Kinda like burning wires or oil, then I got my lunch and sniffed it to be certain it wasn't my kimchi. Nope, not that lucky, so I pulled over, popped the hood and the smoke was rolling out from the a/c compressor.
It wasn't even hooked up (power lead was off) and wasn't even making any noise. I shut 'er down and poured 2 bottles of water to cool it down so I could limp it home.

Now the background is laid for why I'm asking the upcoming question.
I've ordered a/c everything replacement stuff. Then I saw they had some "ACEP" (Air Conditioning Energy and Performance) Extreme Cold Lubricant Enhancer Refrigerant oil.
Says it'll aid in lubricating the compressor and will give colder duct temperature and Better Fuel Economy.
I'm thinking on using the ACEP oil, just because it's supposedly designed to aid compressor longevity.
I ordered a Variable Orifice Valve (VOV) for temps above 105 degrees, which is supposed to help keep the vehicle cooler in idle, slow and stop/go traffic.
I believe that will aid in cooling more than the Freeze Stuff additives, but idk?

So, is it for real or not, the "Additives" like Freeze, ICE-32, Polar Cold, Artic Freeze and the like, do they really work, or is it just a sales gimmick?
.

 

[DAS HUGH!]

My a/c compressor bearings smoked out earlier today on i-110 (was that you that passed me by, lol).
I'd had a VA appt., and afterwards, I stopped at the BOGO Market, a Korean grocery store on N. Pace and St. Mary Ave, and bought some noodles, kimchi and had the old man fix me a (early) lunch beef, noodles and kimchi (kinda like Bulgogi).
Anyway, if you've ever had or been around kimchi, you know the smell. So I'm back on i-110 and I start smelling something not right. Kinda like burning wires or oil, then I got my lunch and sniffed it to be certain it wasn't my kimchi. Nope, not that lucky, so I pulled over, popped the hood and the smoke was rolling out from the a/c compressor.
It wasn't even hooked up (power lead was off) and wasn't even making any noise. I shut 'er down and poured 2 bottles of water to cool it down so I could limp it home.

Now the background is laid for why I'm asking the upcoming question.
I've ordered a/c everything replacement stuff. Then I saw they had some "ACEP" (Air Conditioning Energy and Performance) Extreme Cold Lubricant Enhancer Refrigerant oil.
Says it'll aid in lubricating the compressor and will give colder duct temperature and Better Fuel Economy.
I'm thinking on using the ACEP oil, just because it's supposedly designed to aid compressor longevity.
I ordered a Variable Orifice Valve (VOV) for temps above 105 degrees, which is supposed to help keep the vehicle cooler in idle, slow and stop/go traffic.
I believe that will aid in cooling more than the Freeze Stuff additives, but idk?

So, is it for real or not, the "Additives" like Freeze, ICE-32, Polar Cold, Artic Freeze and the like, do they really work, or is it just a sales gimmick?
.

I know I added that "Artic air" in a can to mine once. When I shopped around later to some auto places to have it professionally serviced they asked me if I used any. When I said yes, some refused to service it. They said the stuff runs the risks of messing up thier expensive ac machine they use to do the work with.
So yeah I won't do that again.
Not sure I'd that's the same stuff or not. It may be best to call around a few places that deal with ac work on cars and ask in advance.

 

[Southalabama]

I’ll be following this.

Just got Jeep ac compressor replaced $2200 at dealer with oem compressor. Still trying to determine if I should have done it myself. A Jeep oem compressor was $700 online.

 

[sloporsche]

As long as it was just the bearings and you did not lose freon or contaminate the system there is no need for any additives imho

 

[Zeroed in]

I know I added that "Artic air" in a can to mine once. When I shopped around later to some auto places to have it professionally serviced they asked me if I used any. When I said yes, some refused to service it. They said the stuff runs the risks of messing up thier expensive ac machine they use to do the work with.
So yeah I won't do that again.
Not sure I'd that's the same stuff or not. It may be best to call around a few places that deal with ac work on cars and ask in advance.

I think they refused was because Most of that Freeze stuff, but not all, has leak sealant in it. So most places don't want to
suck out the freon as they risk that stop leak blocking up their high $$$ equipment.

As long as it was just the bearings and you did not lose freon or contaminate the system there is no need for any additives imho

Funny thing, the bearings didn't even make a sound, so I'm thinking it may have been the electrical behind the clutch pack, at least I hope that's what it was.
I could order a repair kit and fix it, but my luck, something else will happen before winter (if it does) arrives, then I'll have to
start over. So, I'm going to play it safe and replace compressor, condenser, dryer, orifice, evaporator, oil and seals/o-rings.
At least that's on order now. Held off on that ACEP stuff, until I can get a clear yes/no on it and the other freeze stuff.

 

[sloporsche]

I think they refused was because Most of that Freeze stuff, but not all, has leak sealant in it. So most places don't want to
suck out the freon as they risk that stop leak blocking up their high $$$ equipment.




Funny thing, the bearings didn't even make a sound, so I'm thinking it may have been the electrical behind the clutch pack, at least I hope that's what it was.
I could order a repair kit and fix it, but my luck, something else will happen before winter (if it does) arrives, then I'll have to
start over. So, I'm going to play it safe and replace compressor, condenser, dryer, orifice, evaporator, oil and seals/o-rings.
At least that's on order now. Held off on that ACEP stuff, until I can get a clear yes/no on it and the other freeze stuff.

check the compressor itself if it is seized up the system is contaminated if not some clutch assemblies can be replaced without freon loss ,make sure its not over-charged or a clogged orifice tube ...you need to be sure what caused what before throwing parts at it

 

[Zeroed in]

Nope, isn't froze up, still spins when I start the engine, still has a slight smell of burning wires tho.
I appreciate the suggestions, but I know my luck. Besides, I've already ordered $320+ of a/c replacement parts.
Rock Auto probably would charge me a re-stocking fee to cancel it. ?

 

[stage20]

Sounds like the clutch locked up and smoked the belt or compressor. You say it spins so idk. If it's not hooked up electrically, the internals are not spinning. Check your idler pulley as well. Sounds off from what I've dealt with over the years. Additives used to be snake oil but with these newer refrigerants, they do not have the lubricity of previous mixes. The new 1234 stuff is pretty dry. Not to be confused with 134a

 

[Choppersled]

I will use oils with uv additives to make future diagnosing easier bit I'm weary of anything else. Personally I don't want to change the viscosity of the refrigerant and therefore possibly the operating pressures and efficiency. I have a 1989 Ford truck with the original condenser and I isolated it and sealed the perimeter of it so the fan draws all the air through the condenser and radiator when it is running. I also used some cork impregnated insulation tape on all the metal portions of the ac hoses and lines. With those two mods the efficiency was boosted to the point that it blows colder than my 2023 truck from the factory. I was considering an electric fan on the condenser to aid in heat transfer but it's so cold that I haven't felt it necessary.

 

[Zeroed in]

I also used some cork impregnated insulation tape on all the metal portions of the ac hoses and lines. With those two mods the efficiency was boosted to the point that it blows colder

I thought you're supposed to remove the heat from the system (hi-pressure side), but you're getting colder air by insulating the ac lines to hold it's heat in?
Or am I just misunderstanding what you're saying?

 

[Choppersled]

I thought you're supposed to remove the heat from the system (hi-pressure side), but you're getting colder air by insulating the ac lines to hold it's heat in?
Or am I just misunderstanding what you're saying?

My thought process for the hot side was I had plenty of tape so why not reduce the risk of heat sink from the under the hood hot air adding more heat to the refrigerant to be removed. It gets pretty toasty under there parked in summer traffic so it was an experimental preventative measure.

 

[tros6t]

If compressor was not on, then the clutch bearing is what failed! The bearing always turns when the engine is running, whether AC is on or off! U can get a compressor clutch with the bearing but it’s usually best to just get a reman compressor with the nee clutch installed

 

[DustyDog]

If compressor was not on, then the clutch bearing is what failed! The bearing always turns when the engine is running, whether AC is on or off! U can get a compressor clutch with the bearing but it’s usually best to just get a reman compressor with the nee clutch installed

Yep... the front seal is probably ceramic, but depending on how much heat the bearing generated...

And the last time my pulley went out (and BIG time... the outer pulley broke off from the hub/bearing... can't recall if the bearing actually failed first), I was able to get a new compressor with clutch & pulley (Ford FS10 on Amazon) for just a few bucks more ($116 for new/complete) than the clutch & pulley alone (also on Amazon), so... why not?

 

[Zeroed in]

But "if" it was the bearings, then there would be all kinds of noise coming from the a/c compressor, right. It did and does not make any noise with the engine running. Like I said, it had a "burning wire" smell coming from it. Maybe the seal gave way, and the PAC150 oil was a smoking? And the wires going to the clutch pack was burning because of the heat?
IDK, but amazingly, the serpentine belt is good, Had I didn't stop when I did, I imagine the belt would have cooked off too.
I left the engine running whilst dousing the compressor and its pulley with water to cool it and whatever was causing it to smoke like a chimney. When the water got to where it wouldn't evaporate as soon as it hit the compressor and pulley assembly, I shut the engine off and doused it some more.

Good ole RockAuto, replacement parts are on the way. Here's a tip if you ever buy from them and buy the "package" deal (everything needed so you don't have to look yourself).
The package (their selection) has the compressor, condenser, dryer, oil and o-rings, say $340.00.
But, if you select the parts yourself, you can usually save yourself a few $$.
I got the listed stuff above, but a different compressor, condenser and even got the ACEP additive and still saved $20.
Another tip, when you go to check-out, look at you're shipping costs. They'll show which warehouse each item is coming from, A,B,C,D (and maybe E ?) warehouse.
Try to get parts coming from the same warehouse, otherwise, you'll wind up paying more for an item (bc of s/h fees) than it'd cost locally.
Oh, also ordered (separately), Chemours 134a freon, 12oz 6-pak cans for $50.50. That's less than Wal-Farts $10+ per can.

** Anyway, What about the Additives, Freeze, Artic, etc stuff that claims to make your ac colder than if you didn't use it?
Does it actually work??

 

[DustyDog]

But "if" it was the bearings, then there would be all kinds of noise coming from the a/c compressor, right. It did and does not make any noise with the engine running. Like I said, it had a "burning wire" smell coming from it. Maybe the seal gave way, and the PAC150 oil was a smoking? And the wires going to the clutch pack was burning because of the heat?
IDK, but amazingly, the serpentine belt is good, Had I didn't stop when I did, I imagine the belt would have cooked off too.
I left the engine running whilst dousing the compressor and its pulley with water to cool it and whatever was causing it to smoke like a chimney. When the water got to where it wouldn't evaporate as soon as it hit the compressor and pulley assembly, I shut the engine off and doused it some more.

Good ole RockAuto, replacement parts are on the way. Here's a tip if you ever buy from them and buy the "package" deal (everything needed so you don't have to look yourself).
The package (their selection) has the compressor, condenser, dryer, oil and o-rings, say $340.00.
But, if you select the parts yourself, you can usually save yourself a few $$.
I got the listed stuff above, but a different compressor, condenser and even got the ACEP additive and still saved $20.
Another tip, when you go to check-out, look at you're shipping costs. They'll show which warehouse each item is coming from, A,B,C,D (and maybe E ?) warehouse.
Try to get parts coming from the same warehouse, otherwise, you'll wind up paying more for an item (bc of s/h fees) than it'd cost locally.
Oh, also ordered (separately), Chemours 134a freon, 12oz 6-pak cans for $50.50. That's less than Wal-Farts $10+ per can.

** Anyway, What about the Additives, Freeze, Artic, etc stuff that claims to make your ac colder than if you didn't use it?
Does it actually work??

I've used the Arctic Freeze "synthetic" R-134a for years (not exclusively; I usually alternate w/standard R-134a) and can say that my '02 Focus w/350,000 miles (and bought new) will freeze me out at times, even on really hot days as long as I am at highway speed. I never run the fan on low (only #2 and up), and don't use the temp knob (always full cold when the A/C is on)... I just turn the compressor off when it gets too cold (or under hard acceleration, etc.).

Looking at a can, it does have "Stop Leak" which may or may not be a bad thing... I would only depend on such a thing to actually stop leaks as a last resort... but I've never had to replace anything other than the compressor and dryer on the Focus, so... not hurting hoses, o-rings, etc., apparently.

I can understand shops maybe being leery of running it through their recyclers, but wouldn't know, since the last time someone else laid a wrench on one of my vehicles was 1982

 

[Zeroed in]

It's hard to find any that doesn't have the Stop Leak in it. I just prefer not to use that, especially with new replacement components.

 

[Zeroed in]

Well, that was the fastest Rockauto delivery for me to date. I ordered the a/c replacement stuff (compressor, dryer, etc) late Thursday evening and it arrived today at 6pm.

I also found that ACEP Enhancer stuff on Amazon (GPD 8011276). I bought 2 from them for the cost of 1 from Rockauto.
The difference is the shipping fees from RA, and Free from Amazon.

If it actually works to boost colder air, then I'll use the 2 from amazon in my other vehicles. They say you can add 0.5 oz to your current ac system without overcharging it. So I might try that, provided it does work. But then again, it's supposed to increase the longevity of your ac system, so I'll probably just add it anyway.

** well, well, I just saw that I'm only getting one 1oz bottle of the ACEP from amazon, even tho I ordered 2. Also, I cannot find it on their site no more. Guess I got the last bottle?

 

[Zeroed in]

Sum'body messed up. I got that Enhancer Stuff (ACEP, part# GPD 8011276) from Amazon today.
It comes in a 1oz bottle, and each 1oz bottle (varies in price from retailer). Amazon was $14.86 for 2 bottles which included the tax, with free s/h.
Rock Auto's is $6.04 ea (plus $9.99 s/h + tax). (I got 2 for less than the price of 1 at RA).
Anyway, my Two (1oz) bottles were delivered today. And when I opened the box, there were Twelve (1oz) bottles.
Not my birthday, so, I guess I'll contact Amazon and see if they want the extra 10 bottles sent back to them?

Finally finished the Trike rear axle I was working on, so I'll start on my truck tomorrow and add some of this stuff to see if it really makes a difference or not.
I had to use my truck today. drove about 15 miles. The compressor was hotter'n Daisy Duke in a 2-piece and still no bearing noise, grinding or nuttin. Drenched it with water to cool it down so as not to burn up my serpentine. Weirdest thing for sure.

 

[jettjon]

"You will always have a car payment." - me

 

[DustyDog]

"You will always have a car payment." - me

Hell, I don't even remember how to buy a car.

'74 Grand Am I've had for 47 years, '65 Ford 250 I've had for 27 years, and the '02 Focus we bought new, w/350,000 miles now. The truck has cost me $5 a month to own, averaged over time