I think you did a adequate fix to get it running but the thin ejector may be subject to accelerated wear and need a long term repair.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qENIv0eVxHw

Use a Shemagh for the sling, seen a few with MG links attaching rds to barrel, beads and tassels and one with a butt stock covered with skin (goat or camel?) shrunk fit and tacked! Give it the death by10K dings treatment then remove remaining finish. Good luck with your project.

wildrider666 said:

I think you did a adequate fix to get it running but the thin ejector may be subject to accelerated wear and need a long term repair.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qENIv0eVxHw

Use a Shemagh for the sling, seen a few with MG links attaching rds to barrel, beads and tassels and one with a butt stock covered with skin (goat or camel?) shrunk fit and tacked! Give it the death by10K dings treatment then remove remaining finish. Good luck with your project.

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Yeah I'm gonna run it till it breaks, then I'll get me a cheapo welder from harbor and add some material and file it to size, and when that fails then it'll be new receiver time or fix it again depending how long it lasts.
I like those ideas, the camel skin would be cool, I think goat would be easier to find. I have seen the shemagh sling used before and I have a few stashed somewhere. Remember seeing one braided up real nice, gotta find tassels and paki tape

Echo 93 has paki tape in stock. Just red right now but they had blue and green before IIRC

Range update...So after all the hours of work I put into it getting it running I figured why not do some simple mods. I am pretty much finished with the "distressed" look on the finish, Stock is looking good. I polished the chamber, G2 Hammer and hook along with a couple of friction areas. The action is noticeably smoother. Admittedly not as nice as an Arsenal or Milled AK type but no where near where it started and light years ahead of a typical WASR or equivalent.
I centered up the front sight and went to the range with the intention of dialing the rifle in for me. As luck would have it I did not have to drift the sight left or right at all. Big surprise to me since I usually have to drift a bit to get in line. Maybe the sight is slightly canted in my favor. If so, it is not noticeable to the naked eye at all. So it shoots straight and true. Only did a 25m zero w/ leaf set at 1. I am confident where the holdovers should be from there. No key holes, nice tight group.
This WW rifle runs like a sewing machine now. I brought home some expended cases home to inspect and study, just to tweak and adjust as necessary. After approx 220rds (a couple of mags were short) I tore the gun down and inspected all areas for metal shavings, excessive wear etc and it looked good to the naked eye, no shavings, the ejector was my main concern and I can see a fresh wear spot where rounds are now consistently smacking it. Ejection remained good. Empties fly out to the 2 or 5 oclock at approx 6-8m distance. There was only 1 that I noticed flew a bit short but it got out of the action and did not stop the gun so ok by me. Still going to do the weld mod and reform the extractor eventually but it runs great right now so I may wait a bit on that.
Issues I am still running into is I cannot get the dang muzzle device off. I have soaked it in PB. Rapid fired it till it was smoking. Used the leather belt and clamp technique. I am reluctant to try a big pry bar thru the device itself cause it is a zig zag type of 74 break and those are not that common in the states anymore so I do not want to destroy it.
Not a fan of U.S. made AK barrels but the one installed on this gun is terrific. The lands and grooves are sharp and its chrome lined. Puts out nice tight groups if I do my part. Polishing up the action and FCG made a huge difference from the last time I fired the rifle as well. Thinking about doing the same to my Arsenal but that thing is pretty dang smooth already so why mess with perfection.
FCG pin plate is in there and for just having the rifle a few days it is really showing some progress. Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated. I have fired a lot of AKs overseas but am finally getting to appreciate the inner workings and what makes an AK tick. So if you guys know any pro tips I would love it.

So what is the best way to add metal material from a welder? I am guessing just a regular stick welder can build enough material that I can work and shave and reform the ejector?

Red said:

So what is the best way to add metal material from a welder? I am guessing just a regular stick welder can build enough material that I can work and shave and reform the ejector?

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Just need to be careful not to burn off the little bit of material that is there. Mig or Tig would probably be the best bet

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Yeah I am very much rusty on welding. I may try JB weld just for kicks. I have had some great experience with the stuff. I used it when I was a young, even poorer man to fix several holes in my car radiator and believe it or not it worked and outlasted the car.
I gotta post pics soon but this rifle is looking really good. Since polishing the internals and doing the diy trigger job on an already nice G2 trigger, this 74 is a real sleeper. The more I dig into it and learn the more I realize how crappy the receiver is. I know AKs are supposed to have loose tolerances for reliability sake but this receiver takes it to the extreme. I side by side compare to my Arsenal on things and man, there is a reason the Arsenals are considered top shelf rifles. Only thing about he Arsenal is the finish stinks. It's just basically a rattle can finish. Anyhow will post pics and maybe a video soon.

JB weld is good stuff, I repaired a cracked 4X4 transfer case with it. I think it is only for static repairs and will not hold up to repeated impact IMHO. Someone here may be able to put a bead on it ot you could call a few shops to find on that will do the job.

wildrider666 said:

JB weld is good stuff, I repaired a cracked 4X4 transfer case with it. I think it is only for static repairs and will not hold up to repeated impact IMHO. Someone here may be able to put a bead on it ot you could call a few shops to find on that will do the job.

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This

I don't think JB Weld will hold up to the battering, find someone with Mig or Tig to but a bead there for you to file into shape

Couple of pics of the "distressed" finish. If you think it is ugly then mission accomplished. Looks like more than a few I have run into overseas. The shot with the blue selector markings are the etch kit I got to burn in he markings. Simple 9v with a little bit of salt water should burn those suckers in there.
The rifle is a real shooter now too. After much polishing, hammering and receiver work, this thing is a champ now. Bulgy parts are awesome, G2 single stage is nice now after a trigger job. Action cycles like butter now. Chrome lined barrel is really nice and bright. As it sits now it looks like classic Soviet AK 74 you would see in troops using in Afghanistan. Battle worn look, mis-matched wood. I got a nice original sling on it. Still debating on going full muj with it and putting paki tape etc on it.

7.62 spec ejectors probably got used in a lot of the earlier 74 builds.

Like some of my Glock slides. It aint ugly . . . it's got character. --- SAWMAN

Looks great - captured the right balance of distressed but not overdone / obviously scotch brited. I've seen some where it's pretty clear they just went to town without any thought as to how one might actually wear out in the real world. You going to put Russian wood on there or leave it Bulgy?

I was looking at some russian surplus take off wood online but haven't bit yet. I did come across a sweet deal on a used painted Bulgy wood set for $35 and polish tantal quick detach bipod was only $14 at apex. So I have some extra wood to experiment with. The tantal bipod is of course not correct since the gun doesn't have the sleeve on the gas block, but usable for this and any firearm you don't mind scuffing the barrel on.

Etched receiver selector markings. Still gotta clean em up a bit, and make the old ones disappear. Also gotta fill and redo the notches, already added the notch on the safe position on the receiver. it'll look nice when finished.

You could mud hut fabricate a bipod. WWHD? Military scraps, auto or M/C parts? Course ingenuity desired!

Next part of the project. Fix the terrible mag wobble in this gun. As the picture shows. The magwell cut was made by a blind man. This is a US made receiver!! It's not like the imported ones that they had to cut after importation. Truly embarrassing craftmenship from waffen werks. I know a certain amount of wobble is acceptable but I think this may be a bit too excessive and lead to issues.
The fix. Afixxing a thin amount of barstock in there should alleviate the problem.

Take a look a this angle guys. Do you think I should move the rails down ever so slightly? Or should I focus on the mag wobble or both? Reason I ask is when dry cycling, sometimes there is barely enough bolt face to pick up a new round. It has only happened a couple of times in the 500ish rounds I have put thru it since I fixed the ejector but I know this slight clearance is the culprit.
Eliminating mag wobble keeps the next round centered and able to be easily slammed into the chamber by the bolt.
Pushing the rails down just a thousandth or two will give the bolt additional meat to use. What ya think?

Mag wobble fixed... it locks up nice and tight now. Still thinking what else I can do to ensure reliable operation in all positions and adverse conditions. Still would like the bolt to have more meat catching the next round for feeding. My goodness what a pile of scrap the WW receiver is. Cant wait till I learn how to rivet and press my own stuff so I can put a really nice American receiver "if it exists" on this really nice bulgy kit.

Nodak Spud


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