HD Tactical

Suppressor alignment rods

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  • stage20

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    I'm going to be using some adapters and extensions. I've been reading and seems it's a good idea to use suppressor alignment rods. Before I dig into all that's out there, do you have a favorite? I was told my dead air to check out Brownells
     

    Bowhntr6pt

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    You can buy rods from McMaster Carr for much less. I have suppressor rods from SureFire that were like $75 each.

    I later bought some rods from McMaster Carr after seeing a post on another forum. You can cut them down to what ever length you want and bevel the edges for a smooth fit.

    I bought a 3' section for .223/.224 bores (0.2188") at $5.12 and one 3' section for .308 bores (0.2969") for $6.67.

    Search for this on their site:

    Tight-Tolerance Oil-Hardening O1 Tool Steel Rod


     
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    jonparker4

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    You can buy rods from McMaster Carr for much less. I have suppressor rods from SureFire that were like $75 each.

    I later bought some rods from McMaster Carr after seeing a post on another forum. You can cut them down to what ever length you want and bevel the edges for a smooth fit.

    I bought a 3' section for .223/.224 bores (0.2188") at $5.12 and one 3' section for .308 bores (0.2969") for $6.67.

    Search for this on their site:

    Tight-Tolerance Oil-Hardening O1 Tool Steel Rod



    Thanks for the info I just ordered some myself.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     

    Longtooth

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    Ok... So, not to hijack the thread... What's the point of suppressor rods? Should you use them every time?

    Iv never heard of them before.
     

    stage20

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    Use them on a new host to make sure the barrel thread or adapter is concentric. Keep from having baffle strikes. That's not good. Worth checking. If it goes down to the bolt you know the bore is aligned with the suppressor
     
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    Longtooth

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    Ah. I must have got lucky with the first 2. Ill keep that in mind on the others.
     

    Daezee

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    Would these McMaster rods be good for pushing out a stuck case (rather than damaging a cleaning rod) or when slugging a bore?
     

    Bowhntr6pt

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    Would these McMaster rods be good for pushing out a stuck case (rather than damaging a cleaning rod) or when slugging a bore?

    I'd think so, they are hardened steel.

    But I'd not want more than 1", 2" max to be sticking out of the bore when fully inserted. Less exposed rod to flex and possibly damage the crown.

    Maybe several progressively longer sections to use as you go for slugging a barrel.
     

    B52

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    Yes they are. I am getting slightly smaller rod diameter for better clearance in the barrel. I am also checking for brass rods from McMaster to better protect the barrel.
     

    Longtooth

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    You can buy rods from McMaster Carr for much less. I have suppressor rods from SureFire that were like $75 each.

    I later bought some rods from McMaster Carr after seeing a post on another forum. You can cut them down to what ever length you want and bevel the edges for a smooth fit.

    I bought a 3' section for .223/.224 bores (0.2188") at $5.12 and one 3' section for .308 bores (0.2969") for $6.67.

    Search for this on their site:

    Tight-Tolerance Oil-Hardening O1 Tool Steel Rod


    Thanks for the info I just ordered some myself.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yep, I'm ordering some now
     

    SAWMAN

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    Forgive me - -> trying to learn here.
    Your objective is to make sure your bore is in PERFECT allignment with your muzzle device ... CORRECT ??
    If that is so,seems that any perfectly streight rod,of the appropriate OD,would work to verify allignment.
    I would suspect JJ could build you guys these at a cost savings. Especially if he got a large(er) order.
    Not speaking for JJ - -> just a thought from a member trying to learn something new. ---- SAWMAN
     

    850guns

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    I'd think so, they are hardened steel.

    But I'd not want more than 1", 2" max to be sticking out of the bore when fully inserted. Less exposed rod to flex and possibly damage the crown.

    Maybe several progressively longer sections to use as you go for slugging a barrel.

    Ugh, that reminds me I have a Lightning replica in .38/.357 that has a ruptured case stuck in it.
    What size should I get?
     

    stage20

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    To clarify, there are bore alignment tools(rods) and then there are brass rods for removing stuck cases and projectiles(squibs). I'd rather prod with a brass rod in a barrel than a steel rod. Different metals for different purposes.
    I agree. Wouldn't want to use a brass one for alignment after I've banged on it. Tool steel is where it's at for measuring (imo)
     

    John B.

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    I would worry about this on something with poor machining like an AK or low end AR barrels... or a bubba garage thread job.... anything else, just send it.

    Most baffle or end cap strikes are a result of the suppressor not being properly attached. Just my opinion, and your mileage may vary.

    Sent from my SM-G981V using Tapatalk
     

    Longtooth

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    I would worry about this on something with poor machining like an AK or low end AR barrels... or a bubba garage thread job.... anything else, just send it.

    Most baffle or end cap strikes are a result of the suppressor not being properly attached. Just my opinion, and your mileage may vary.

    Sent from my SM-G981V using Tapatalk
    Yeah, @DeadlyThreatDefense helped me set mine up. He may have used an alignment rod without me realizing that's what he was doing.
    Its a bummer he's not into shooting as much anymore.

    I have a feeling my MPX is going to be really goofy to get set up. Youtube has me a little worried about it. lol
     

    jonparker4

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    Awesome advice, I ordered mine Wednesday afternoon and received them yesterday in less than 24 hours. That’s what I call service and it was only $34 for 3 rods with shipping.


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