Re-Loading Equipment

[BayouPigeon]

Re-Loading is therapeutic for me. I would have to say, On rainy days I re-load, and sunny days I like to shoot. I re-load for a couple of Winchester shorts mag rifles, a .270 wsm and a 7mm wsm I also reload for several pistols, including my pride and joy, a .357 Maximum, that I’ve also heard shooters call a .270 Maximum. (True Wildcat) I also re-load for 12 ga shotgun, for me, and my two daughters along with their husbands, great family time shooting clays, and talking family. I’ve reloaded since the mid 70’s.

A staple to my re-loading bench has always been an Ohaus 10-10 scale. The old timers I learned from, said it was the scale that NASA used in designing the Apollo. I’ve always used a Pink DQ spoon to get close to my charge weight on my 10-10 scale, for my rifles, I knew I needed 2 level DQ spoons and maybe an ⅛ th of another. Over the years, I developed a rythem, while charging my cartridges on my 10-10 then moving the cartridge to my RockChucker. About 2 years ago for Christmas, my daughters purchased for me a RCBS 1500 Chargemaster. I had to read the directions a few times, then watch some video’s on you tube, to confidently use the 1500, although still double checking everything on my 10-10.

The other day, I seen a video of a man using the RCBS Chargemaster, and he took 5 charges from the RCBS and weighed them, on yet another scale. Then he set the Chargemaster up 1.5 gr charge, and used an Omega Electric powder trickled to bring his charge up to weight. By doing this the 5 test cartridges were more accurate, and much closer to target than the Chargemaster alone could get. (Interesting)

All that equipment on the bench, and extra steps seems like it’s no more accurate than just using my Ohaus 10-10 scale to begin with. By the way, after a couple old timers I knew well had passed on, I’m now up to 3 Ohaus 10-10 scales, which I always use 1 to make sure I get the exact same reading as my first Ohaus 10-10 scale.

Many say it’s not necessary to use a scale for shotgun re-loading, all though I Usually dump the first 10 charges back in the bottle, then weigh the first after that, then every 10, until I’m confident I’m getting a consistent charge. I don’t use hydraulics or the automate, so the uniform stroke of the handle means a lot to getting consistent drops.

My question to you is, I know this Topic covers Shotgun reloading, Pistols and Rifles, What is your weight management procedure.

 

[Jevaughn]

I use an RCBS-branded ohaus 10-10 and 5-0-5 with an RCBS Uniflow powder measure with a baffle in it. With pistol loads, I set the powder drop to the desired charge, test 10-15 loads, dumping the powder back into the dropper after each. When I'm satisfied it's dropping consistently, I charge cases and go without worrying about it going out of whack. With rifles, I set the drop to just under my desired charge and trickle to desired weight. I've tried digital scales, and found them to be inconsistent. Seems like everything can throw them off. You can take a bullet and set it on the scale, take it off, put it back on in a different location on the plate and get a slightly different result. My analog scales are accurate every time. My brother uses a Hornady electronic powder measure/scale and loves it. But, I've done loading with him and it's so damned slow in my opinion, and depending on the powder being used, every 3rd to 5th charge goes over and has to be dumped back in.

 

[Bowhntr6pt]

I've been reloading for some thirty-three years, still on the same single-stage Rock Chucker press and manual RCBS scales.

Probably a couple hundred thousand rounds assembled that way. Just never got into the more automated methods or progressives.

 

[Jevaughn]

I've been reloading for some thirty-three years, still on the same single-stage Rock Chucker press and manual RCBS scales.

Probably a couple hundred thousand rounds assembled that way. Just never got into the more automated methods or progressives.

I'm not using the same exact equipment as I started on in the late 80's, but it's just newer versions. Instead of a Rock Chucker 2, I use a Rock Chucker Supreme IV. I use newer carbide dies instead, but most of what I use is the exact same as what I learned on as a teenager when I learned to load 38s. A progressive press is faster for sure, but I'm happy with going slow, knowing that each round is consistent and it doesn't cost me a fortune to set up for each caliber.

 

[BayouPigeon]

I was notified this morning of an auction ending on flea bay, a Tan Ohaus 10-10 scale missing the gold pan (a $2.99 Item) sold after 26 bids for $182.00. Every now and then I see one beat to heck and back, chipped paint etc go for less than $100, But after all these years of re-loading (47 yrs) There’s just not much that goes wrong with my Ohaus 10-10. I use the spray on silicone spray on the pins that balance it, and then wipe them down, but I don’t get variance on it. Your either on the mark or your not. I can see quickly setting my RCBS 1500 to drop 25 gr of powder, then use my spoon to trickle it to measurement, but instead of using 3 pieces of equipment to get one charge, I get the quick 25gr then trickle by hand the other say 5gr to get to the 30gr I’m using in a recipe.

With that said, I’m a fan of advancement, finding faster and more accurate, but in this case, I think the old timers nailed it with their statement of the Ohaus scale was the most accurate scale on the planet. For years I put my powder in a small bowl, and used my DQ pink baby spoon to meter out my load directly onto my scale pan. I’ve used this method in developing hunting loads, and then shooting ¼“ groups out to 100 yds. The powder charge delima was eliminated, and I was able to focus on the bullets, the powder I used, The seating depth in comparison to the lands of my rifling. I could read in my load recipie book, their most accurate load and then with that scale replicate their results confidently. Of course when I found the group I liked and wanted, I could then dial it in from their. I just don’t think more equipment is better IMO. I can’t really see the fuss of todays newer technology, I think the desired result is to be more accurate with less equipment, rather than use 3 pieces of equipment to do what I’ve always done with one piece. In my opinion newer just isn’t better. Unless I’m doing something wrong. That’s the reason I’m asking your opinions.

 

[Daezee]

With powders that measure "ok" (for which I routinely load a lot of..."lot of" = 40-50 or more rounds at a setting), I set up a volume powder measure for that charge and label it as such. While I have several powder measures bought used over the years and each set up for a certain charge, I also have the RCBS one that uses interchangeable meter assemblies and have multiple of the assemblies, each set up for a specific powder/charge and labeled as such. See https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012934243?pid=491524 "ok" = dump and weigh 10-20 powder charges at once and get an average to see if the average is the charge you want. If a new jug (lot) of powder is opened (I prefer to buy 8 lb containers), I double check to make sure my powder measure or meter assembly is still throwing the desired charge. On occasion, it's been slightly off (say a tenth of a grain or so), so I simply reset the powder measure to the new lot of powder.

With powders that do not volume measure ok (example: IMR4198 and 7383 cause they're long sticks or small charges of Unique or Swedish wooden bullet powder since they are lightweight flakes), I weigh each out using my RCBS Chargemaster type of equipment. The Chargemaster is also used for weighing out test loads or small runs of powder charging, say 20-25 loads. I try to use powder that volume measures well. If that doesn't work, then try the harder to measure powders. I shoot a lot. Rifles mostly and some pistol shooting. My last powder order was received yesterday: 8 lb 2400 (meters well), 8 lb 2200 (meters well), and 8 lb IMR4198 (will weigh each charge).

Maybe there's a powder measure out there than can throw IMR4198 and 7383 and not have the charges varying by up to a full grain each but more like +/- 0.2gr or even less...I could go for that. 7383 (106mm spotter tracer powder) has especially long sticks (I call it Lincoln Log Powder) and sucks for throwing in every measure I've tried it in, but I've found a great use for it in cast bullet 303 British reloading and it shoots point of aim to the non-adjustable windage sights on my 303 Martini-Enfield.

After many years of use and many thousands of weighs, my Chargemaster started behaving erratic (long out of warrantee). Luckily I'd bought another new one years ago at a great price at an estate sale.

 

[Baddog 0302]

A couple of things I've learned in the past few weeks.
On another forum a lot of people there love to live vicariously through other peoples bank accounts.
1. You can't reload 1000 yd. moa rounds unless you have ;
a. A $1500.00 powder despencer / scale combo
b. Only custom $$$$ dies will do
c. only a $ 1100.00 case annealer will do
d. And only a $ 15.000.00 rifle & scope will do.
More important to me is a digital scale that only goes reads to.1 Gn.
I used to sit and watch a scale read-out bounce from 44.01 to 44.07 (+-).
But figured it out that I would need a set up like Sierra has ; 200 yd underground test range, an a fixed universal receiver.
This is supposed to be FUN, no one's life is dependent on your loads shooting <moa or >++ moa

 

[BayouPigeon]

A couple of things I've learned in the past few weeks.
On another forum a lot of people there love to live vicariously through other peoples bank accounts.
1. You can't reload 1000 yd. moa rounds unless you have ;
a. A $1500.00 powder despencer / scale combo
b. Only custom $$$$ dies will do
c. only a $ 1100.00 case annealer will do
d. And only a $ 15.000.00 rifle & scope will do.
More important to me is a digital scale that only goes reads to.1 Gn.
I used to sit and watch a scale read-out bounce from 44.01 to 44.07 (+-).
But figured it out that I would need a set up like Sierra has ; 200 yd underground test range, an a fixed universal receiver.
This is supposed to be FUN, no one's life is dependent on your loads shooting <moa or >++ moa

It’s a good thing I don’t shoot 1,000 yds. I’ve acquired my equipment over the years. Furthest deer I’ve ever shot was 200 yds on a pipeline, and honestly my optics aren’t that good. My diabeties have hurt my eyesight, and I am guessing the 1,000 yd shots are for the younger hunters to make. I would hate to carry the necessary optics to sight in on 1,000 yd bullseye!

I do own a garage bench model annealer, although I’ve been lucky enough to never have to use it. The man who built my .270 Max was Jim Rock, built right in Arizona, (I’m proud of that stamp) It shoots a .270 hunting bullet (140 Gr Hornady Interlock) out of a .357 Maximum cartridge, necked down to the .270. This bad boy was made to compete against the contenders, shooting steel rams, and is deadly accurate out to 400yds, although I’ve only shot out to 200yds. I loaded for this round on my RCBS RockChucker @ 1 Rnd at a time, and recently purchased the set up to run it on my Dillon 650. The .357 maximum casing has to be annealed, but I’ve been fortunate to purchase a few thousand casings from a competitor Contender shooter, that were already preformed. This Pistol is custom built, but I assure you it turns heads everywhere I go with the 16” barrel and muzzle brake along with the Leopold optics, I don’t have no $15,000.00 wrapped up in it.

Baddog, I see you are a lot like me in that I have guns for practical use. I wouldn’t take a $15,000.00 Rifle into the woods. That post wreaks bragging to me, with someone having more $$$ than common sense. That’s high pollutant folks right there… That’s like me showing up at the range prior to Duck season, shooting my old 870 Wingmaster pump, while the guy next to me is shooting his fancy Koehler, or Beretta DT 10. I’ve never seen anyone Duck Hunt with those fancy shotguns, Guessing that saltwater fog would make short work on those blueing jobs. It’s also been my personal experience, that you can either hit the target or you miss it, and I see them fancy shotguns miss plenty. But showing up to the trap corse with an 870 Wingmaster is about like a railroad bum showing up to a senate hearing with all those fancy suits.

Baddog, your whole post starting with 1A through 1D just offends the heck out of me… I’m glad your a down to earth man like us.

 

[BayouPigeon]

With powders that measure "ok" (for which I routinely load a lot of..."lot of" = 40-50 or more rounds at a setting), I set up a volume powder measure for that charge and label it as such. While I have several powder measures bought used over the years and each set up for a certain charge, I also have the RCBS one that uses interchangeable meter assemblies and have multiple of the assemblies, each set up for a specific powder/charge and labeled as such. See https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012934243?pid=491524 "ok" = dump and weigh 10-20 powder charges at once and get an average to see if the average is the charge you want. If a new jug (lot) of powder is opened (I prefer to buy 8 lb containers), I double check to make sure my powder measure or meter assembly is still throwing the desired charge. On occasion, it's been slightly off (say a tenth of a grain or so), so I simply reset the powder measure to the new lot of powder.

With powders that do not volume measure ok (example: IMR4198 and 7383 cause they're long sticks or small charges of Unique or Swedish wooden bullet powder since they are lightweight flakes), I weigh each out using my RCBS Chargemaster type of equipment. The Chargemaster is also used for weighing out test loads or small runs of powder charging, say 20-25 loads. I try to use powder that volume measures well. If that doesn't work, then try the harder to measure powders. I shoot a lot. Rifles mostly and some pistol shooting. My last powder order was received yesterday: 8 lb 2400 (meters well), 8 lb 2200 (meters well), and 8 lb IMR4198 (will weigh each charge).

Maybe there's a powder measure out there than can throw IMR4198 and 7383 and not have the charges varying by up to a full grain each but more like +/- 0.2gr or even less...I could go for that. 7383 (106mm spotter tracer powder) has especially long sticks (I call it Lincoln Log Powder) and sucks for throwing in every measure I've tried it in, but I've found a great use for it in cast bullet 303 British reloading and it shoots point of aim to the non-adjustable windage sights on my 303 Martini-Enfield.

After many years of use and many thousands of weighs, my Chargemaster started behaving erratic (long out of warrantee). Luckily I'd bought another new one years ago at a great price at an estate sale.

I’ve seen those powder/chargers before, it’s like the set ups I have for each pistol caliber I have on the swap heads on my Dillon. I do have the bottles set for each one and marked with powder and drop, along with permanent Paint marker on each swap head. Each one has dedicated powder drops set up. The Dillon was the last loader I purchased, and I’ve owned it for about a year now. I did purchase the Inline Fab bench mount set up, so I can swap it out quickly with my Rock Chucker. I do like the Dillon 650, but between you and I, I still use my OHAUS 10-10 scale about every 5 rnds, because I just don’t trust what I can’t see. Your probably noticing, it just takes a lot to teach an old dog a new trick. I love the pride put into every round I load, knowing its right, I love the precision of my shots, and when something goes awry, I look at myself, rather than my loads.
Although 12 ga rounds don’t have a need to be exact, I drop 17.5 gr of Red Dot, I do love consistency. When I start the run, I know those first 10 handle pulls are going to be all over the place, starting to get the powder flowing, and getting my rythem. My very first re-loader was a shotgun press, Lee Load All, Mister, you better have a Good and accurate scale for every handle pull. That press taught me to just use my OHAUS scale, and trust nothing on that machine. Even the shot drops were all over the place. I quickly switched to the MEC 600, and thought I crawled out of a Pinto and into a Cadillac, although it was single stage, The Mec had quality written all over it.

 

[Jhunter]

I like the AutoTrickler set up. I’d like to spend as much of my free time shooting and not reloading. My goal is to minimize the hours at the reloading bench while maximizing my time at the range. The FX120i is a very reactive fast scale.

 

[Jevaughn]

I like the AutoTrickler set up. I’d like to spend as much of my free time shooting and not reloading. My goal is to minimize the hours at the reloading bench while maximizing my time at the range. The FX120i is a very reactive fast scale.

I can dump an accurate load faster with the powder drop and trickling the last .2-.3 grains by hand for about a tenth of what that setup costs. Don't get me wrong, it's a damned nice machine, and those lab-grade scales are damned accurate, but for the probably 220 I've got invested in the uniflow, 10-10, and a trickler, I can move faster and be within +/- 0.05 grains of my destination load.

 

[Jhunter]

I can dump an accurate load faster with the powder drop and trickling the last .2-.3 grains by hand for about a tenth of what that setup costs. Don't get me wrong, it's a damned nice machine, and those lab-grade scales are damned accurate, but for the probably 220 I've got invested in the uniflow, 10-10, and a trickler, I can move faster and be within +/- 0.05 grains of my destination load.

This was a video I just shot and is not a tuned or cherry picked throw.
So I seat bullets while the AutoTrickler throws a charge. No down time and no need for me to trickle. I haven’t found a faster, more accurate technique for stick powders.

 

[Jester896]

I'm looking for a different method myself and that Auto Trickler looks good. I have used my buddy"s MatchMaster and I find it a slight pain to program and a real pain to swap powders. I'm using a ChargeMaster and trickling on a GemPro to get .00 for the precision stuff and it takes too much time. The ChargeMaster can be close enough for hunting loads all the way to 1K guns. I have made .25-.33MOA loads with it at 1K for my .260. It seems to 10-10 just sits on the back of the bench anymore. BTW @Jhunter a kernel of H4350 weighs .05 I also use RCBS powder measures for some things..pistol mostly...but I have 2, 1 small drum and 1 large drum and use them with ball powders mostly.

I use the Inline Fabrication QC base to swap between the Rock Chucker and the Co-Ax. I need to get another top for the T7 or sell it. I could save some time if I used it. My Dillon is also on one of their bases. I also use a K&N Arbor for some stuff. And A MEC 9000 for shotgun...sold the 20ga but still have the 12ga.

 

[BayouPigeon]

I like the AutoTrickler set up. I’d like to spend as much of my free time shooting and not reloading. My goal is to minimize the hours at the reloading bench while maximizing my time at the range. The FX120i is a very reactive fast scale.

That looks like a nice machine, the price tag is even more impressive. As much as I like it, I believe I’ll keep my ole OHAUS 10-10 unless they start offering interest free financing

 

[oneshot]

Ok with all of this talk about different loading equipment and what you use . Let's do a little survey. How long and are you still using them. And still have them . The RCBS Rock Chucker and 10-10 scale
I will start off got both at the same time 58 yrs. ago. Just my 50 cents jj

 

[ChrisC]

there are scales out there that are accurate to 0.0x gr. but. does that kind of tolerance matter if your node is +/- 0.2 gr wide?

 

[Jhunter]

there are scales out there that are accurate to 0.0x gr. but. does that kind of tolerance matter if your node is +/- 0.2 gr wide?

It’s funny you say that. I also have a charge master. Some cases like 6.5x47 or BR Norma could care less about to the kernel measurements. The charge master produces the same numbers as the AutoTrickler. Single digit SD’s no matter what. You could probably get away with no scales at all and only use the Lee dippers with some of these rounds.

 

[Jester896]

there are scales out there that are accurate to 0.0x gr. but. does that kind of tolerance matter if your node is +/- 0.2 gr wide?

It depends, some I have are fine with the window you mention but I have a couple that do not.

Here is one of them...it didn't record all 5 shots. These were loaded on the MatchMaster with VV N140. 2 extra kernels of powder and this rifle seems to notice for some reason.

 

[BayouPigeon]

Ok with all of this talk about different loading equipment and what you use . Let's do a little survey. How long and are you still using them. And still have them . The RCBS Rock Chucker and 10-10 scale
I will start off got both at the same time 58 yrs. ago. Just my 50 cents jj

I have both my original Rock Chucker press, bolted to my bench, and have gone from ONE OHAUS 10-10 scale to three OHAUS 10-10 scales 2 of the 3 sitting on my reloading bench, with the 3rd within eyeshot of the bench. One OHAUS and One Rock Chucker bought brand new 47 yrs ago, the other Two OHAUS scales come from older reloaders that have since passed away, and are older than mine, but work perfectly.