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Looking to buy a name brand ar lower..

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  • Grits1/5

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    I feel shitty posting this, but I’m looking to buy a name brand ar lower. I know that I can get a complete PSA lower for $149, but my pride is getting in the way. I’m tired of putting PSA lowers on $1,000 uppers, so I’m looking for a better brand lower for my next build. LWRC and Sig would be my preferred, since I Have both those complete uppers sitting on PSA lowers right now. As a matter of being OCD, I would like a lower of the same manufacturer, even if they are the same specs as PSA. I would consider lowers of other brands, but I’m getting tired of using PSA lowers. I would buy a complete lower or stripped lower, depending on the price.
     

    Grits1/5

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    I gotta ask: have you had any function issues with the PSA lower driving a LWRC or Sig upper?

    And to keep this post semi-on-topic: does your OCD request a specific color of the LWRC and/or Sig lower to match?
    Nope, my PSA lowers have functioned perfectly on every upper that I have put them on. I should just build my own 80% lowers, but my OCD messes with me, and ask myself why I put $2000 into AR parts, and $1000 into optics, just to put a $69 PSA lower on a build
     

    850guns

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    Ok. But why? A mil spec lower is very limited. The newer ones are... well I don't have much experience.......
     

    ls1_guru

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    Nope, my PSA lowers have functioned perfectly on every upper that I have put them on. I should just build my own 80% lowers, but my OCD messes with me, and ask myself why I put $2000 into AR parts, and $1000 into optics, just to put a $69 PSA lower on a build
    I have a $3k AR, and a $300 AR, both do what they do, so I get the idea but in the end of the day, is it OCD based on what aspect? Most of the parts are forged in the same places, paying for the name.
     

    Grits1/5

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    I have a $3k AR, and a $300 AR, both do what they do, so I get the idea but in the end of the day, is it OCD based on what aspect? Most of the parts are forged in the same places, paying for the name.
    You are entirely correct sir. I’ve built expensive AR’s and cheap AR’s. The worst malfunction that I’ve had on AR was in firefight in Iraq. The damn bolt jammed up on sand and stuck half way into the buffer tube. Forward assist didn’t help, and I couldn’t break it open, I pounded it on the ground until I gave up and used an AK. Maybe the new KAC sand cutter bcg would have helped. But that was an FN m16a4.
    So I’ve never had a malfunction based off a PSA lower. Most malfunctions have been magazine issues. But I hate seeing that damn PSA logo on my $300 AR’s and my $3k AR’s I even bought the “stealth” PSA lowers, and it still bothers me
     

    stage20

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    I'm pretty picky on my roll marks. The std palmetto is nowhere near my favorite. Don't care what is cost. If I like it, I'll buy it. I have 80 dollar lowers and I have 400 dollar lowers.
     

    Grits1/5

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    I'm pretty picky on my roll marks. The std palmetto is nowhere near my favorite. Don't care what is cost. If I like it, I'll buy it. I have 80 dollar lowers and I have 400 dollar lowers.
    Yup, they may be the same forging, but the PSA roll mark bothers me on my expensive builds. I’m happy with them on my budget builds,!
    One of my M16A2 Rifles I carried was FN and it worked over there... hmmm
    mine worked great, until the time that it didn’t
     

    Grits1/5

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    You looking for any particular name brand? Aero Precision, Colt, Knights Armament, Noveske, etc? In the end, it's basically a hunk of 7075-T6 aluminum (mostly) mil-spec.
    I might be ok with an Aero Lower, I probably don’t want to pay the premium for a KAC, or many Colts. Some newer lowers have a set screw that tightens against the upper, making a tighter fit, which is nice. Surprisingly, one of my PSA lowers fits my sig upper tighter than one of my old colts. Both function 100%. I’m just tired of using PSA lowers because they are inexpensive
     

    nitro

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    I might be ok with an Aero Lower, I probably don’t want to pay the premium for a KAC, or many Colts. Some newer lowers have a set screw that tightens against the upper, making a tighter fit, which is nice. Surprisingly, one of my PSA lowers fits my sig upper tighter than one of my old colts. Both function 100%. I’m just tired of using PSA lowers because they are inexpensive
    Sent PM.
     

    Raven

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    Forward assist didn’t help, and I couldn’t break it open, I pounded it on the ground
    Slamming a rifle like that is called "mortaring". A dirty bolt getting stuck in the back happened to me too, but on a C308. I beat on it good... nothing worked. I sold it down the river for parts and never looked back. I had a Sterling bolt get stuck in the back once too, but that was from a pinched spring between the bolt and receiver.
    I've got a buddy of mine with new in box DPMS lowers for sale, and some new DPMS lower receiver parts kits too, if anybody's interested
     
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    Dan1612

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    Friends don’t let friends run Poverty State Armory lowers.
    You’ll find exactly what you’re looking for on GunBroker.
    Good luck with your search.
     

    nwfdub

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    I might be ok with an Aero Lower, I probably don’t want to pay the premium for a KAC, or many Colts. Some newer lowers have a set screw that tightens against the upper, making a tighter fit, which is nice. Surprisingly, one of my PSA lowers fits my sig upper tighter than one of my old colts. Both function 100%. I’m just tired of using PSA lowers because they are inexpensive
    I'm with you. Here's what I opted to do to solve my mind issue. I purchased a 3 pack Cerro Forged 80%ers from Tactical Machining, and a modulus arms jig. I also purchased a practice lower. You can get the 80% Lower engraved with whatever you want. I'm going with a Winchester just cause there aren't any and never will. Boom high quality lower, with screw - affordable with quality roll. Be sure to engrave prior to cutting pocket.

    Sent from my SM-G715U using Tapatalk
     
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    zdiver99

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    I might be ok with an Aero Lower, I probably don’t want to pay the premium for a KAC, or many Colts. Some newer lowers have a set screw that tightens against the upper, making a tighter fit, which is nice. Surprisingly, one of my PSA lowers fits my sig upper tighter than one of my old colts. Both function 100%. I’m just tired of using PSA lowers because they are inexpensive
    A little info I found on the web page of Ammodump International LLC

    "I am asked this question a gazillion times a day. The following are the five largest manufacturers and who use their product. The difference? “The Name on the Lower”​

    Lewis Machine & Tool = LMT, Lauer, DS Arms, PWA, Eagle, Armalite, Knights Armament, and Barret

    Continental Machine Tool = Stag, Rock River Arms, High Standard, Noveske. Century, Global Tactical, CLE, S&W, MGI, Wilson Tactical, Grenadier Precision, and Colt

    LAR Manufacturing = LAR, Bushmaster, DPMS, CMMG, Double Star, Fulton Armory, and Spike's Tactical

    Olympic Arms Olympic, SGW, Tromix, and Frankford.

    Aero Precision Aero Precision, Surplus Arms, and Palmetto State Armory.

    Surprised? I get a kick out of some LE that can only have Rock River or Colt per say, but not Stag because of some regulation someone has deemed policy"


     

    Grits1/5

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    I'm with you. Here's what I opted to do to solve my mind issue. I purchased a 3 pack Cerro Forged 80%ers from Tactical Machining, and a modulus arms jig. I also purchased a practice lower. You can get the 80% Lower engraved with whatever you want. I'm going with a Winchester just cause there aren't any and never will. Boom high quality lower, with screw - affordable with quality roll. Be sure to engrave prior to cutting pocket.

    Sent from my SM-G715U using Tapatalk
    I’ve actually considered replacing most of my AR lowers with 80% homemade lowers. Engrave them with my own custom logo. If I take the pride in designing or assembling a built, I may as well have a custom lower with my name or logo on it, lol. I could save my stripped factory lowers, if I ever needed to sell a build.
    I’ve built lowers before, years ago. Using hand tools to mill out the FCG area, I never could get them to look nearly as clean as a cnc milled though.
     
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