Ask the Reloading Experts

[bohica793]

DOH!

 

[3 men & a boat]

Had a second squib

Measured every charge, think I'll buy a new jar of powder.



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[3 men & a boat]

Neck tension has a lot to do with Hornady's recommended powder charge, but I would not recommend role crimping plated bullets. I would adjust an accurate powder charge for these bullets and primers.

I use the lee crimp die.
To working up a charge, lees modern reloading calls for 4.7gr of hp-38. I was told lee was very conservative on start loads so I'll try it.


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[bohica793]

From what I am reading in my manuals, 3.7 is real light for that bullet. I would start at 4.2-4.5.

 

[Capt. Dave]

Bullet puller? School me on them, which one is best for all calibers?

 

[JohnAL]

Occasional use get the hammer type.
Pulling a bunch of one caliber get the collet type that screws into the press. Only con is you have to buy a collet for each caliber.

 

[Capt. Dave]

Occasional use get the hammer type.
Pulling a bunch of one caliber get the collet type that screws into the press. Only con is you have to buy a collet for each caliber.

Thanks John, does the press type deform the bullet?

 

[SAWMAN]

The collet that John mentions in his above is better IMO. Mine will not mark the bullet IF you have it set correctly so it will not slip. If it does slip it will leave "gentle" marks to the bullet,howerer it will not (that I have found) effect the accuracy whatsoever.
As stated,the downside is a different collet for each CALIBER. . . not chambering. IOW,a 30-06,a 308Win,and a 300BLK will all use one collet. Another downside,although minor,is that some bullets,with a long,pronounced ojive could be hard,or impossible,to pull. This,depending on crimp or how deeply seated. The collet has to be able to grab the bullet on its bearing surface.
My system will not grab a 300BLK with 110gr Barnes blacktip seated to the groove. No flat/bearing surface to grab. --- SAWMAN

 

[JohnAL]

Most of the time no. It depends on how much you have to tighten the collet to get the bullet out of the case. At most you get a slight ring on the bullet which I have never found to affect accuracy. Those with the very tight neck tension are also the ones that will cause you to destroy the plastic hammer pullers trying to get the bullet out.

 

[JohnAL]

I agree with what Sawman said too.

 

[SAWMAN]

And . . . (posting between,and to get out,of yard work) with the hammer/inertia type pullers the lighter the bullet,the harder you gotta whack it (the puller).
I bought my collet system after trying to pull 40gr bullets out of a 22-250. The neighbors thought I was putting on a new deck out back. Just like practicing with a turkey call . . . . I had to do it while the wife was away. --- SAWMAN

 

[JohnAL]

I destroyed my first hammer puller trying to pull 192 cal. 30 M2 AP with that black tarry crap they used to seal the bullets. I really wanted those LC 54 cases.

 

[Capt. Dave]

Annealing? Do you do it, with what, how often? Looking at an AMP, but damn pricey. How to justify the expense of annealing?

 

[bohica793]

I personally don't anneal my brass, but if I were to, I would use the simple oven method: Take a 1-2" deep pan, stand your brass up in it, fill with water to below the bottom of the shoulder then bake in a 450 degree oven for an hour.

 

[JohnAL]

You can squeeze a few more loadings out of your cases but it doesn't justify an expensive machine. If you are forming cases to a different chambering and shoot a lot then it might be worth it. Years ago I was forming .25-06 from .30-06 &.270 and I just used the water pan and propane torch method. If not careful you can ruin the cases with a couple of seconds too long with the torch. The oven method above is probably the best way.

 

[Jhunter]

I use the Annealeez. I think I paid $275. Its works great.

 

[SAWMAN]

Anneal . . . ??? Which chambering ?? --- SAWMAN

 

[Capt. Dave]

Anneal . . . ??? Which chambering ?? --- SAWMAN

223,308,300blk,6.5

 

[SAWMAN]

223/5.56 = No Way
308 = Probably Not
300BLK & 6.5C = More Than Likely
All this depends on the action of the weapon,how resized,how much brass you have,and what you consider a PITA overload.
You can save to be reloaded,quite a bit of brass if you only push the necks back enough to fit back into the weapon that it was fired in (properly resized). Also,a semi-auto puts alot more wear on brass than does a single shot or a bolt gun.
All in all . . . . if you properly lube,and properly resize your brass,it should last for quite a few reloadings. Back in the day,when I did everything with 7mm Rem Mag I got 15 reloadings out of Winchester brass that I bought new,not loaded. --- SAWMAN

 

[Idoono]

I just use a cordless drill on slow holding a socket. Brass in socket and just a few twirls with the torch. Seems to help.