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Pitting on Revolver

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  • Welldoya

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    I was looking at a Ruger revolver at a pawnshop today. I was kind of interested in it if they would come down a little but when I examined it closely, it appeared to have some little spots along the barrel and a few other places.
    I couldn't tell if it was pitting that had been sanded and the gun re-finished or what. The blueing looked good and I'm no expert so really couldn't tell if it had been re-blued.
    I know Ruger uses a casting process instead of forged. Does that sometimes create little "dots", very small imperfections in the steel ?
    I never noticed it on any other Ruger revolvers I've owned in the past.
     

    wildrider666

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    Never seen pits on a factory condition Ruger. Does pitting matter with your intended use @ sale price? Pitting on the outside always makes me wonder whats under th side plate. Unless its de-greased, it may be hard to see corrosion inside the pits or "blue".

    Good tool to have in pocket while shopping: $7 @ Wally, combo 10X AND 20X jewelers magnifier.

    https://www.walmart.com/ip/Stalwart...75035&wl11=online&wl12=49696142&wl13=&veh=sem
     

    Welldoya

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    Pitting would not matter if the price was <$300. But at an asking price approaching $500 and I'm not planning on paying over $400 (even if it was really nice), yes it matters.
    I'm with you on that. If it wasn't taken care of on the outside, what the heck does the inside look like ?
    Some of these shops are insane with their pricing. I offer what I'm comfortable with and if the offer isn't accepted, oh well, I'll find another gun.
     

    Rapier

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    There are no pits in the finish of a Ruger revolver from the factory, period. There can be different colors (reds or purples), lightning streaks, etc. in the older guns, due to different metals in the alloy, yes, but no pits. If you see pits that are blued, the gun has definitely been refinished. There are several areas on a Ruger revolver that should have mill marks and a common error it to polish them, the front sight pedestal, at the rear, the cylinder frame, on the bottom, in front of the grip frame, both should be milled and blued but not polished. The sides of the hammer are ground, at a precise angle, edges crisp and sharp and not polished. If this is an Old Model 3 screw gun, the value is cut in half if it is messed with and it is in fact then just a used shooter, forever after.

    There are a few folks in the entire country that can duplicate a Ruger finish to make an old model gun look new, but it takes patience, experience and a lot of practice, not many will do a precise refinish job on an old model gun. So you end up with a standard re-blue and a paint job on an aluminum grip frame and ejector rod housing.

    I used to display my OM collection, three tables, in the SE at shows. You may have seen the display at local shows around here 10-15 years ago. I did quite a few shows in Mobile, Bay Minette, Ft. Walton, Pensacola, Montgomery, Atlanta, Birmingham etc.
    Ed
     

    MAXman

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    I don't know a thing about their single actions or the gp/sp line, but if it's a double action six series there's a 10 minute YouTube video that's mostly talking about how to strip them down to frame(you'll need a flat head screwdriver and a small punch if the supplied mainspring pin isn't in its spot), you can check out the internals yourself.
    Also, if it's a da six model, no worry about painting aluminum because they're all steel or stainless. Single piece frame and grip, single piece barrel and shroud. I picked up a 2 3/4 blued speed six for about 375 before tax, I put the turn line on the cylinder and the blue was immaculate. I've been intimately framiliar with the smith k frame for 3 years now, and hands down I prefer the speed six despite the blue finish(I'm a geek for Stainless). I feel they're worth just as much as a smith for utility though maybe not collectibility, I guess it's what you plan to use it for. my six and mII are the last I'll get rid of, for what it's worth.
     
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