To lube or not to lube?!

pcolagunner · Jun 29, 2016

Ok guys, I'm going to be posting a lot on reloading as I get more into it. I'm going at it blind and learning as I go. My question here is why do you lube your cases when using steel re-sizing dies and not carbide? Ive read some guys lube even with carbide dies. What is the harm if you do not lube your cases when using steel dies? Thanks for your sharing your knowledge and expertise!

TennJeep1618 · Jun 29, 2016

Always lube rifle cases, sometimes lube pistol cases.

Since I started running a progressive, I lube all of my cases because it makes things run smoother.

Straight wall cases like 40 and 45 don't need lube when running a carbide sizing die, but it helps with tapered cases like 9mm. If you are wet tumbling and getting your cases very clean, it wouldn't hurt to lube them.

Google search for the DIY lanolin/iso heet lube and remember, a little goes a long way. Don't overlube or it can lead to hydraulic deformation (primarily in bottleneck cases).

Signal25 · Jun 29, 2016

Stuck cases suck donkey balls.
Bad
Like for real.
Like dont even go there.
You will throw tools and cuss.
And probably not like yourself for a few days.
Lube it up and slide it in easy.
I use 20W motor oil for lube.
Just go heavy/light on the lube. If you get too much build up you can dent the cases up by the shoulder.

Signal25 · Jun 29, 2016

*posted at the same time. But yea, what Brent said..

pcolagunner · Jun 29, 2016

I am starting of with 9mm. So, does this mean I should be cleaning my brass before I de-prime and re-size? I've already de-primed and re-sized about 150 range brass with no lube and having not cleaned them before I thought about lube. Have had no issues but dont want to push my luck if I'm doing it out of sequence.

16gauge · Jun 29, 2016

Brass cases will stick inside a steel die without lube, you don't won't to find out trust me. But they do make stuck case removers for when this happens and it is a nice tool to have around if it does. Carbide is much harder than steel and cases won't stick as easy and are used on pistol dies so you don't have to lube the small cases and usually with pistol reloading the volume of cases is greater and would be more time consuming.Lube only a little as to much only builds up in the die,there are videos showing the proper way to lube cases, its not hard to learn at all. Hope this helps.

TennJeep1618 · Jun 29, 2016

pcolagunner said:
I am starting of with 9mm. So, does this mean I should be cleaning my brass before I de-prime and re-size? I've already de-primed and re-sized about 150 range brass with no lube and having not cleaned them before I thought about lube. Have had no issues but dont want to push my luck if I'm doing it out of sequence.

Clean brass is more likely to stick in a die if you don't lube. If you have a carbide sizing die, I wouldn't worry about it. If you're using a steel sizing die and/or very clean brass, I'd lube, just to be on the safe side.

Like Signal said, stuck cases make you want to pull your hair out. Even with the kit to remove them fairly easily, it still stops your entire process and you can't continue until you get the case out.

pcolagunner · Jun 29, 2016

Great information guys thanks for the help!

pcolagunner · Jun 29, 2016

That lanolin/Iso Heet recipe looks like the way to go. Cheep, and a mixed bottle can last thousands of cases!

TennJeep1618 · Jun 29, 2016

pcolagunner said:
That lanolin/Iso Heet recipe looks like the way to go. Cheep, and a mixed bottle can last thousands of cases!

Indeed. I mixed a bottle last summer/fall and I've still got some left after loading at least 6K rounds. I use a plastic coffee can, dump some cases in it, a couple sprays inside, then shake it around a lot to evenly coat them. Seems to work reasonably well.

pcolagunner · Jun 29, 2016

I just watched a youtube video on it and the guy was doing the same thing. He recommended and mix of 1 oz. Lanolin to 12 oz. Iso Heet. What do you use?

TennJeep1618 · Jun 29, 2016

pcolagunner said:
I just watched a youtube video on it and the guy was doing the same thing. He recommended and mix of 1 oz. Lanolin to 12 oz. Iso Heet. What do you use?

I honestly can't remember. I used a bottle of Iso Heet and only part of a bottle of lanolin. I just found a recipe online and followed it.

JohnAL · Jun 29, 2016

pcolagunner said:
I just watched a youtube video on it and the guy was doing the same thing. He recommended and mix of 1 oz. Lanolin to 12 oz. Iso Heet. What do you use?

That is about right. It's not critical.

pcolagunner · Jun 29, 2016

Thanks for the help

Rapier · Jul 1, 2016

Ever see the commercial: Pay me now or pay me later? Process dirty range brass and you will be replacing sand scarred equipment, dies, etc. Sand is a lot harder than brass or steel. Load dirty brass in your gun and you can be replacing a barrel or cylinder. Just clean the brass every time before you process or reload it. My big blue vibrator sets on my work bench, I toss the brass in on my way into the house, go in, get a shower, a cool libation and its is done.

On a carbide die for handguns, rule of thumb is lube the first piece of brass. Carbide dies for bottle neck rifle cases is only good for commercial reloaders and still requires lube on the case. A bottleneck pistol round loads just like a bottleneck rifle case. Do not try to reload aluminum or steel case anything, toss that crap, it is even worthless for scrap. Berdan primed brass for a new guy is a scrap pile deal, unless you want to learn all about broken and bent depriming pins. The crimped edge on crimped military primers must be swaged out or cut out with a chamfering tool. Some 9mm brass has crimped primers. If you can not insert a new primer with ease, stop, the pocket is crimped. Watch when picking up brass at a range that you do not mix in a bunch of un-processed military brass, usually it will have a paint seal on the primer and a crimp if you look close at the primer. Put it aside and process it by removing the crimp, then if boxer primed it can be mixed in with other brass for reloading. Berdan, look inside the case, it has two holes in the bottom, one opposite the other, near the side no hole in the center, Boxer primed has one hole in the center.
Ed

pcolagunner · Jul 1, 2016

Thank you for the insight Rapier!

pcolagunner · Jul 1, 2016

Now I know you need to lube when you de-prime and resize but do you need to re-lube for every step such as belling and placing the bullet and crimping or is the initial lube enough?

Signal25 · Jul 1, 2016

pcolagunner said:
Now I know you need to lube when you de-prime and resize but do you need to re-lube for every step such as belling and placing the bullet and crimping or is the initial lube enough?

Just the 1st step.
Sizing takes some real force, hence the lube.
The rest of the step arent nearly as bad.

Signal25 · Jul 1, 2016

I know you are doing pistol stuff, but what I do for rifle is tumble to clean, lube, reload, then tumble again to take the lube off.

For pistol stuff, all I do is .40, I just tumble and reload. I don't lube pistol cases.

johnhilterman · Jul 1, 2016

I have carbide dies on my Dillon 650 and always lube (sts). Shit's cheap and it runs smoother

Please read the new forum rules! REQUIRED!

Click Here: https://www.gulfcoastgunforum.com/threads/general-forum-rules-code-of-conduct.70770/

To lube or not to lube?!

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Gulf Coast States

Member Benefits:

Master

2M 1FTE

Master

Master

Master

Expert

2M 1FTE

Master

Master

2M 1FTE

Master

2M 1FTE

Master

Master

Marksman

Master

Master

Master

Master

Expert