New Tristar Youth Is 100% Reliable!

flightmedic said:

I traded for a TriStar tactical shotgun recently. Was going to hold it for a while and turn it around and sell. That was my main intent with the gun I let go for the trade, but liked the look of the shotgun after the offer was made. However after walking in to the house with it, my wife took it from me....cycled the chamber and said thanks... you can have your 870 back now. So it looks like it will stay in the family. Thanks for all of the information on the forum guys.

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In preparation for my daughter coming to visit late this year and us going out hunting some pen raised quail and chukars; I bought a Tristar G2 Youth with wood stock. I wanted it as light as possible so bought the Youth Wood model instead of the synthetic stocked one that comes with two sizes of stocks. That model is about 1/4 lb. heavier than the wood model and since it was only her gun, there was no need for the full length stock. Also, since my daughter is 5 feet nothing in height and small framed; I thought the Youth model would fit her. Since I knew nothing about Tristar, I initially thought of getting a 20 gauge 1100 and cutting it down, fitting a recoil pad, etc but I thought that it still might be heavier than need be plus having to get all the modifications made would add to the price. A friend recommended a Tristar as he had bought one and it worked perfectly. The Tristar Youth already comes the right size with a shortened stock, barrel of 24 inches, screw chokes and shims to alter the stock dimensions. I immediately put in the shim that provides some cast-off (very easy to do and a great design) as I have found that most shotgunners can benefit from some cast added to their stock dimensions and this is especially true of women. I got the Tristar and stripped it to see how it was made, and to make sure it was lubricated properly. I must say I was very impressed with the quality of the internal components. There were no rough or poorly finished parts inside the gun anywhere including the trigger mechenism. I am very familiar with most gas or recoil auto mechanisms and especially the 1100. I would say that compared to an 1100; this Tristar mechanism is much superior not only in the materials used but the also in the design. The gas system for the Tristar is more like the Baretta 391 auto than the 1100, and as such is easier to clean and I bet it will be less prone to failure. Their system uses a gas sealing ring like the rings on auto pistons instead of the fragile (yes, I know they work most of the time) rubber O ring that Remington uses in the 1100.
Tristar instructions on an orange sticker inside the box the gun comes in, says that you should shoot 20 shells of magnum pursuasion to start with and then the gun should cycle light loads better. I did not have any magnum 20 gauge ammo so instead I shot 35 or so of heavy Federal 1 oz field loads which are at 1220 fps. I then moved to 7/8 oz loads at 1250 fps (factory Kemen shells) and finally some of my light 7/8 oz (1150 fps) reloads. This Tristar shotgun never missed a beat! It fired, cycled and fed all ammo without so much as a hint of a problem! It also ejects empties farther than any other gas auto I have ever seen and would compete with even the old A5 design in that department! The cast off was perfect for me and very welcome as it will be for my daughter. My only complaint is that I shot the gun as well as I shoot any my own shotguns costing many multiples of what this little gun cost! I just extended my left arm along the forearm to make up for the shortened stock and shot 23's regularly from the low gun olympic skeet position.
I bought the Tristar through Mike Battista of Silver Dollar Firearms and he ordered it from Davidsons who gives you a lifetime transferable warranty on any issues with a gun they provide. I am not sure how they would do that if the manufacturer were to go out of business but the way this little gun is behaving, I don't anticipate it needing any gunsmithing work. So if you are wondering whether TriStar builds a reliable shotgun at a great value; I can tell you that based on my experience with this gun I would say "HECK YEAH"! Also, their youth model should be perfect for any youths or smaller women. Give Tristar a try!

What am I missing ?? What does the fact that a shotgun shell is either low brass or high brass have to do with cycleing ?? As long as the shells OAL is correct. --- SAWMAN

You are right, technically speaking, but shotgun shells in times past were categorized as to heavy load or light loads by the length of the brass base. So, a low brass shell was a light target or light field load and a high brass shell was heavy in payload and velocity shell used for larger species of game birds or for distant shooting. Another term used for those "high brass" shells was "Express". So a "high brass" shell would be a more powerful shell that should assist in the cycling of a shotgun designed for heavier more powerful ammo. Shotgun ammo is full of such anachronistic terms that have little real meaning anymore except among those of us old enough to remember what it all once meant. Dram equivalent to designate velocity goes clear back to black powder days and is totally useless nowadays since it varies based on gauge size. The ammo companies should just print the velocity, shot charge and size on the box and everyone would understand completely what they are buying.

My kick ass crow load is 1 1/2ozs of #8 shot at 1370fps. This is loaded up to max pressure. I use EXCLUSIVELY once fire "AA" hulls. This load will puff crows out to 70yds shot thru my Pattern Master Choke,outta my Benelli M1 Super 90.

What was what and what they called what some 40 years ago means nothing nowadays. High brass,low brass ?? Most people feel that low brass means low power....not true.

Allow me to state again......the height of the brass on a hull has nothing to do with the cycleing. This......IMO. --- SAWMAN

It depends upon the shotgun. Also, the UTS 15 loses 1 round capacity in each tube when using high brass hulls for some reason. Hickok45 discovered that in his testing.

I don't believe anyone was referring to what can be reloaded in shells of low brass configuration. The anachronistic term of low vs high brass was only used as a traditonal terminology to describe factory loaded shotshells. Obviously, you can reload and shoot anything in a shell that is within specs for that gauge. I was only trying to explain why the term meant something at one time, and most importantly was still being used in the context of the power of factory loaded shells. Used in the manner as shotshells were originally loaded, it could effect the guns ability to cycle; just like your reloads vs factory AA target loads would. So your assertion that the height of the brass has nothing to do with the shells ability to cycle the action is true for all reloaded ammo. It is also mostly true for modern ammo as much of the loads now are housed in identical appearing cases. I was only trying to explain why the historical terminology was relevent considering how ammo has traditionally been identified. Your assertion that terminology that was used 40 years ago means nothing is not true if it is still being used today, and you want to understand what the person is trying to convey. If you want to get into a discussion on old terms used in shotgun lore you could fill a book. Most of the terms still used to describe shotgun parts are at least 200 years old. They are still used every day and people in the know understand exactly what is being described. I hope that helps clarify the subject and like I said before; ammo companies just need to put the velocity, weight and size of shot on the boxes and all would be crystal clear. I think they are starting to do that more and more. By the way, I don't think any company is now using a true brass base for their shotshells but are using a brass plating to some cheaper ferrous metal. Why do I say that? Because most clubs have tools for picking up hulls that have a magnet on the bottom. The older true brass based shells will not stick to a magnet and all the newer cases do. Take care. Bill

Wasn't it the Saigas that would not cycle the low brass lower power shotgun shells? I know one of them had to be tuned or something, so many out there not sure which one it was but many discussions on the matter.

Looked it up, OK yes it was the saiga, also the 870, 1100, 11-87 all have topics on google about this not cycling low brass or reduced loads.

Made in Turkey

flyandscuba said:

I finally took the TriStar Raptor up to oneshot's this afternoon for a little break-in. It ran like a champ, right out of the box. 00 Buck, rifled slugs -- both hunting and tactical -- functioned flawlessly. I did remove the "tactical choke" and installed the improved cylinder choke when I returned home. No sense in directing muzzle blast anywhere but towards the bad guys. Recoil was very manageable and the length of reach was comfortable for me.

Overall, I'd say this home defense autoloading shotty is just as good for the purpose as other much higher priced firearms.

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The reviews I have read rate this as one of the best shotguns on the market. Whetherby has their name on a 20 ga version from the same factory in Turkey. They come in pump or auto and are known for having no failures or problems after hundreds of rounds. They also shoot a tight pattern. I'm saving for a 20 when Tristar starts marketing them under their name ... Whetherbys a bit pricey and it's just the name.
Rob

I also have one of these, I love it. I took the gun apart and polished all of the parts I could and after this thing shot like a champ. I initially used the spring from the extension that I got bit it didn't want to feed the last round after I bought a Wolff sprin and a better follower I haven't had a single jam or FTF FTE and it cycles really fast it's def worth buying and it's like any other gum that isn't high end it takes a lil love bit if you take the time to polish it out this thing is super reliable. Only thing that is bugging me is that I ant find out which stock will work with it I want a 6 point collapsible for it and there isn't a company that makes one specifically for it but I've seen on other forums that the 870 stock will fit but them others say it doesn't. Any help on this would be great.

Where did you find a magazine tube extension? I contacted the manufacturer shortly after buying mine - but was told no such animal existed... Did you use an extension tube from another make/model? If so, what spring did you get to go with it that worked?

You have to Dremel the crimp off to make the extension work I bought my follower and spring from brownells I think it was 31$ with shipping for both. It made a huge difference and tristar wont tell you anything because it's an imported firearm and they aren't legally allowed to modify them bit you as the owner can. You will also have to use or fabricate a spacer I can give you more detail on the phone if you want or email if you pm me I an help better.

The mag tube extension I have is a tac star bought it at bass pro and did the spring because it didn't have enough tension with the spring that came with the extension but it works flawlessly now and I'm super pleased and now that I've done the work it cycles as well as my Benelli and that is saying a lot

iwrfla said:

You will also have to use or fabricate a spacer I can give you more detail on the phone if you want or email if you pm me I an help better.

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fyi....if you go to a bicycle shop and get wheel spacers they work PERFECT!! they cost like 2 bucks and are made of machined aluminum. typically black anodized.

OK I hate being the one that brings up an antique thread But I have recently picked up a Tristar TSA semi auto and I am wanting to put an extension tube on it and no one seems to be able to help me find which tube to buy and how to install it....the manufacturer was really vague! LOL Can anyone here help me?

Tristar doesn't make an extension tube. I think there are some YouTube videos showing how several people have modified other tubes augmented with some fittings from a hardware store.

I opted to just sell the TriStar I bought - and just go with a more mainstream shotgun that did have aftermarket support.

A Google search may produce results as well.